Surrealism has informed Vogue since the early thirties, both in the work invited from such dinstinguished artists as Giorgio de Chirico, Salvador Dali, Pavel Tchelitchew and Pierre Roy, and in the work of such house artists and photographers as Cecil Beaton, Erwin Blumenfeld and, of course, Christian Bérard. After the war, Coltellacci marked French Vogue with his idiosyncratic and theatrical variety. Here, from Balenciaga, ''La Foire aux Vanités'' (Vanity Fair), a grand caped evening cloak and a long straight gown.